$floatcFile = "/www/wwwroot/xin_floatAdc.txt"; 市井之辈(第十个名字)_106 咬春(2 / 2)_市井之辈最新章节免费阅读无弹窗_新笔趣阁

106 咬春(2 / 2)

市井之辈 第十个名字 1310 字 2022-04-25

还有就是冷,说是立春,可温度和冬天一点没区别,冰面上还能站人呢。不过按照节气说,立春之后的冰面就逐渐开始融化了,最好不要上去。

在这种气候环境下,想咬春难度很大。那时候没大棚,也没长途货运,附近的蔬菜正是青黄不接的时候,想吃点好的也没材料。

但古人很会苦中作乐,仔细看了看菜篮子,把有数的几种食材拼凑拼凑,也弄出一种食物来,那就是春饼了。

春饼自古就有,但不叫春饼,而是春盘。大诗人苏轼就曾写过:渐觉东风料峭寒,青蒿黄韭试春盘。

元初耶律楚才写的更清楚,昨朝春日偶然忘,试作春盘我一尝。木案初开银线乱,砂瓶煮熟藉丝长。匀和豌豆搡葱白,细剪萎蒿点韭黄。也与何曾同是饱,区区何必待膏粱。

看到没,咬春的风俗不光汉人有,少数民族也有,而且食材还挺多,有蒿菜、韭黄、藕、豌豆、大葱、粉丝。

京城的春饼做法挺有讲究,和面的时候要开水烫一半、温水和一半,这样烙出来的薄饼才绵软不较劲儿。

春饼里裹的菜叫合菜,大体上有菠菜、韭黄、豆芽菜、肉丝。讲究点的家庭,还会来个摊黄菜。

黄菜不是菜,是鸡蛋。但旧时候鸡蛋不叫鸡蛋,叫鸡子儿。京城人忌讳蛋这个字,因为它总和贬义词混,比如滚蛋、坏蛋、笨蛋、混蛋……

把这些菜裹在薄饼里吃,就是春饼。但富裕人家觉得还不解馋,于是又应运而生了一种叫做盒子菜的食物。

盒子菜,顾名思义就是装在盒子里的菜。盒子是梅花瓣形状,里面分成九份,中间圆形,四周放射状,有点像飞镖的靶盘。

卖盒子菜的不是饭馆,而是猪肉铺,旧时候叫猪肉杠。这种买卖家一般都是前店后厂,院子里架个大汤锅,专门加工肉制品,比如酱肘子、卤什件、卤煮鸡、熏鱼、熏大肠、酱肚、盐水肝等等。

做好的肉制品放到前店的柜台里,用玻璃罩子罩上,吆喝着售卖,顾客指哪块伙计就切哪块。半尺多厚的大菜墩,明晃晃的切肉刀,上下翻飞,切出来的片必须厚薄一致,大小适当,然后分类装在梅花盒里面,总共九种。

薄饼、合菜、盒子菜都准备好,再弄点葱丝和甜面酱,就可以开吃了吧。但慢着,吃春饼也有讲究。用筷子把菜摊在薄饼上,不能太多,也不能太少,以薄饼能卷起来不露菜为准。

卷完的形状最好是一头大一头小,吃的时候双手捏着举起来,仰起头从大头下嘴,叫做吹喇叭。如果低着头吃,菜汤就全流出来了,弄一桌子一身不好看。

吃完春饼再来碗热乎乎、粘稠稠的小米粥溜溜缝儿,嘿,浑身都是暖和的,穿着背心出去跑两圈都不冷!

除了春饼之外,特别讲究的人家还会制作一种时令小吃,叫春卷儿。意思和春饼差不多,个头比大拇指壮点。不过做法就不太一样了,春卷皮不是烙的也不是蒸的,而是沾出来的。

手里拿个面团,在热饼铛上一按,再转一圈,拿起来,饼铛上沾了一层薄薄的面,就是春卷皮,和摊煎饼类似,但跟考验手法。

用春卷皮像包饺子一样包进去荤素馅,下油锅炸到金黄,吃起来又脆又香。就是比较废油,当时不是大富大贵人家,真舍不得这么吃。实在馋了,就去饭庄卖几个尝尝。东安门大街路北的东兴楼饭庄,每年立春专门出售炸春卷,非常有名。

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